In the world of beauty and health, it seems like there’s a new trend popping up every day. Whether it’s vitamins to stimulate hair growth or pore vacuums to remove blackheads, many of these popular treatments are (a) illegal and (b) may do more harm than good. The latest situation? The steam hair washing craze is on the rise, and with it, a wave of panicked searches about whether shower steam is bad for your hair.
By the way, hair steam treatments have been around for years, first becoming popular in salons that specialized in curling and styling hair. Previously, Cosmo rounded up all the best at-home steamers for natural hair and answered all your burning questions/needs, so today we’re going back to the basics. Let’s dive into the details and find out if shower steam is good or bad for all hair types, what the difference is between shower steam and steam conditioners, which products can maximize the potential of steam, and, scientifically, what a hair professional can do for your hair.
Trichologist Kerry E. Yates says that, in general, shower steam isn’t harmful to your hair. In fact, a study by the U.S. National Library of Medicine found that if hair is exposed to temperatures below 284 degrees Fahrenheit (about 110 degrees Celsius), any changes to the hair structure are minimal and reversible. While steam is moist heat, by comparison, the average shower temperature is between 98 degrees Fahrenheit (about 35 degrees Celsius) and 104 degrees Fahrenheit (about 40 degrees Celsius).
However, this does not mean that there are no risks at all. Excessive humidity is thought to cause a phenomenon called “humidification,” in which the hair repeatedly expands and contracts, absorbing and losing water, which can be harmful to porous, fine, or color-treated hair. Those who believe they have experienced this problem report problems such as curl loss, breakage, tangling, and frizz.
IMHO, there’s no scientific evidence that human hair can get tired of moisture, and the steam from a shower isn’t as strong or hot as a steam machine. Take Yates on this one: “The steam from a shower isn’t usually very strong unless you’re in a steam room,” she says. If you’re worried, just be careful how often you wash your hair and be gentle when you scrub and brush it, OK? Very cool.
While Yates says that steam from a shower is not harmful to your hair, exposing your scalp to hot water can be dangerous. Your scalp is an extension of your facial skin. If your scalp is unhealthy, your hair will be susceptible to a number of problems (such as hair loss, dandruff, etc.). “Exposing your scalp and body to superheated water can cause redness, inflammation, and irritation,” Yates said, adding that repeated exposure to extreme temperatures can negatively impact the health of your hair follicles, leading to dry hair.
Long story short: A healthy scalp is critical to healthy hair, and overheated water can damage your hair roots and even inhibit hair growth. Yates says if you feel like the water is too hot or scalding, stop showering immediately; if you notice your scalp is getting dry, the problem is getting worse; or if you start to experience scalp discomfort/pain, see a dermatologist or trichologist who can better assess your problem.
As the steam evaporates, it gently opens the hair cuticle, allowing treatments to penetrate deep into the hair, improving moisture, hydration, and overall health. This technique has been used in salons that specialize in curly and wavy hair (like 4a, 4b, and 4c styles) for years, and many curly-haired people, and even those with straight hair, swear by it. While you can use a hot towel to steam in the shower or bath, it’s usually more effective to use a salon steamer or at-home device.
Steaming your hair at home is a relatively simple process. Apply your favorite moisturizer to your hair, don’t sit under the steamer for more than twenty minutes, and don’t steam your hair more than once a week to avoid heat damage (as well as damage caused by using high-temperature tools). Then sit back, relax, and prepare to be blown away by the magic of the steam engine. Ahem, hello, shinier, smoother, and more hydrated hair.
Trichologist Kerry E. Yates says that in general, shower steam isn’t bad for your hair. What can be harmful is water that’s too hot, which can cause irritation, dryness, or inflammation of the scalp. Maintaining an optimal scalp environment is key to healthy hair, so keep an eye on the water temperature and don’t worry too much about a little steam hitting your mirror.
Kerry E. Yates is a trichologist and founder of Colour Collective, a beauty industry partner incubator that helps develop, create and market new beauty brands.
Siena Galliano is a deputy editor at Cosmopolitan magazine with four years of experience writing about beauty, fashion, and lifestyle. She specializes in researching and writing about beauty, such as recommending the best shampoo for dry scalp and the best oil for hair growth. She regularly collaborates with leading dermatologists and trichologists in the industry to evaluate new trends, formulas, and brands.