In the world of beauty and health, it seems like there’s a new trend popping up every day. Whether it’s vitamins to stimulate hair growth or vacuuming your pores to remove blackheads, these popular treatments are (a) illegal and (b) may do more harm than good. The latest situation? Hair steaming has risen in popularity, and as a result, people are starting to panic and wonder if shower steam is bad for your hair.
FYI, hair steam treatments have been around for years, first becoming popular in salons that specialized in curling and styling hair. We at Cosmo have previously rounded up all the best at-home steamers for natural hair and answered all your burning questions/needed-to-know information, so today we’re going back to the basics. Let’s take a closer look at whether shower steam is good or bad for all hair types, the difference between shower steam and steam conditioners, which products can maximize the potential benefits of steam, and what’s happening to your hair from a scientific perspective, courtesy of a professional trichologist.
Trichologist Kerry E. Yates says that, in general, shower steam isn’t harmful to your hair. In fact, a study from the U.S. National Library of Medicine found that if you expose your hair to heat below 284 degrees Fahrenheit, any changes to your hair structure are minimal and reversible. While steam is moist heat, by comparison, the average shower temperature is between 98 and 104 degrees Fahrenheit.
However, this does not mean that there are no risks at all. Excessive humidity is thought to cause a phenomenon called “humidification,” in which hair repeatedly expands and contracts to absorb and lose water, which can lead to damage, especially to porous, fine, or color-treated hair. Those who believe they have experienced this problem report problems with curl loss, breakage, tangling, and frizz.
It’s worth noting that there’s no scientific evidence to support human hair becoming fatigued by humidity, and the steam from a shower isn’t as intense or hot as that from a steamer. Take it from Yates: “The steam from a shower isn’t usually very strong unless you’re in a steam room,” she says. If you’re worried, just be mindful of how often you wash your hair and be gentle when brushing and exfoliating, OK? Very cool.
While Yates says that steam from a shower isn’t bad for your hair, the hot water’s impact on your scalp can be a problem. Your scalp is an extension of your facial skin. If your scalp isn’t healthy, your hair will be susceptible to a number of issues (like hair loss, dandruff, etc.). “Exposing your scalp and body to superheated water can cause redness, inflammation, and irritation,” says Yates, adding that constant exposure to superheated water can negatively impact the health of your hair follicles, leading to dry hair.
Summary: A healthy scalp is critical to healthy hair, and water that’s too hot can damage your hair roots and even slow down hair growth. Yates says if you feel like the water is too hot or scalding, get out of the shower immediately; if you notice a dry scalp, worsening scalp condition, or if you start to experience scalp discomfort/pain, see a dermatologist or trichologist who can better assess your problem.
Steam perms gently open the hair cuticle, allowing products to penetrate deep into the hair, improving hydration and overall condition. It has been used in salons that specialize in curly and wavy hair (styles 4a, 4b, and 4c) for years, and many people with curly hair, and even those with straight hair, swear by it. While you can steam your hair with a heated towel in the shower or bath, you’ll usually get better results with a salon steamer or at-home device.
If you decide to steam at home, it’s relatively simple. Apply your favorite moisturizer to your hair, don’t sit under the machine for more than 20 minutes, and don’t steam your hair more than once a week to prevent heat damage (think: damage caused by hot tools). Then sit back, relax, and get ready to enjoy the magic of the steam engine. Ahem, hello to shinier, smoother, more hydrated hair.
In general, trichologist Kerry E. Yates says that steam from the shower is not harmful to hair. But water that is too hot is harmful to hair, as it can cause irritation, dryness, or inflammation. An optimal scalp environment is essential for healthy hair, so pay attention to the temperature of the water and don’t worry too much about leaving traces of steam on the mirror.
Kerry E. Yates is a trichologist and founder of Colour Collective, a beauty industry partnership incubator dedicated to helping develop, create and market new beauty brands.
Siena Galliano is the Deputy Editor-in-Chief of Cosmopolitan magazine. She has four years of experience writing about beauty, fashion, and lifestyle. She is an expert in researching and writing beauty articles, such as the best shampoo for dry scalp and the best oils for hair growth. She often collaborates with leading dermatologists and trichologists in the industry to evaluate new trends, formulas, and brands.