I was sailing from St. Maarten to Anguilla, cruising through turquoise waters and admiring the green hills and valleys, when a stubborn chill crept up on me and I prayed no one would notice. I was one of the few people traveling alone on a boat; the others were couples celebrating anniversaries and friends looking to laze on the beach sipping on tangy coconuts. The sun was shining brightly on my skin through my ill-fitting long sleeves, and I turned toward the salty waves, hoping they would bring a little healing magic before they came. Luckily, the trip across the Anguilla Channel was smooth, scenic, and only took 25 minutes.
As we slowly stepped off the ship, bathed in sunshine and sea mist, the staff picked up our luggage and enthusiastically escorted us to immigration. Less than 15 minutes later, our passports were stamped, marking our official arrival on the small island of Anguilla. Before I knew it, I was rushing to the bathroom, stuffing toilet paper in my pocket, and preparing to drive to my final destination: Cap Juluca, the Belmond Hotel.
Soon I was led through vaulted ceilings, white stone, and an open-air space into the main building, where I was greeted by the signature soft drink, Star of Juluca, a blend of freshly squeezed star fruit juice, sparkling water, and a splash of Ting. I surreptitiously placed my feet on the cool local tile of the lobby and admired the view from the window. The hotel’s whitewashed Greco-Moorish villas, each with its own courtyard, are set along a crescent-shaped Maundays Bay amid picturesque Caribbean palm trees.
I thought the laid-back atmosphere was supposed to be invigorating as I stepped barefoot onto the tiles at that moment. My plan for the next few days was to not disturb this beautiful environment with premature illness and just enjoy it all in peace. But I quickly realized that while Cap Juluca and its staff really want you to relax and enjoy the hotel, more importantly, they really want you to feel good.
I discovered this on my first day, when I went to relax on the soft, white sand beach of the resort. My trusted beach attendant, Keanu (who I later learned was named because his mother loved Keanu Reeves), noticed me tossing and turning in my lounge chair, and so noticed my stuffy nose. He asked me if I’d ever been in the ocean (of course I had), but had I ever tried “dipping my head in the water and letting the salt water flush out my sinuses”? I hadn’t. Keanu immediately took me back to the beach and showed me how to do it. Then I dove into the water so fast I nearly broke my neck, but of course he was right: I felt better immediately.
The next day, Eleanor, the hotel manager, noticed me smiling and suppressing a slight cough during breakfast. As if by magic, I left with a glass of ginger ale, made by one of the chefs, Shontel. Don’t ask me what’s in it – it’s spicy, then sour, then sweet, then spicy again. That evening, I had ginger tea brought to my room, and the next morning at breakfast, Shontel brought me another ginger drink.
Of course, there are few places in the world as ideal for recovering from the cold as Cap Juluca. My room is located on the western side of the bay and is the most secluded, with direct sea views and a private terrace. Next to the shower is a separate sunbathing area with loungers, perfect for soaking up the sun.
Cap Juluca is also unique in that it doesn’t feel like you’re staying at a five-star resort that’s out of place with its surroundings. Once the staff senses that you’re curious about the local culture, they’ll do their best to demonstrate it. Over lunch at Uchu, the hotel’s Peruvian restaurant (don’t miss the Ceviche Carretillero, which combines the freshest fish of the day with a rich tiger’s milk sauce, crispy squid, and Andean corn), my servers Yasmin and Manuela and I found ourselves chatting animatedly about which roadside stands served the best grilled chicken. (Of course, I also grabbed a new beach accessory: a turquoise box of Kleenex that matched the complimentary fridge.) For those who don’t want to slowly roast on the beach like a barbecue chicken—or at least for those who want to take advantage of the many free activities—Cap Huluca has plenty to do: snorkeling, sailing, kayaking, morning fishing trips with local legend Sean, or snorkeling at Prickly Pier, to name a few.
There, I was happy to be a sandworm—with one exception. The main reason I went to Cap Juluca was to visit the new Guerlain Spa, which opened earlier this year. Inspired by the Arawak people of Anguilla, the spacious new wellness center focuses on three elements: water, salt, and plants. With seven tranquil treatment rooms, a wellness center, an infinity pool, pools of varying temperatures, and a sauna, the spa has something for everyone.
For my first appointment, I drove to the edge of the island, where the spa is located. (Bikes are plentiful and complimentary.) The centerpiece of the complex is a southern Spanish-style courtyard, decorated with graceful arches, mosaic tiles, and lush greenery. My first treatment began with a refreshing hibiscus, aloe, and local cherry tea, served with a cold towel soaked in Guerlain Calabrian Bergamot, a warm blend of cardamom, pink peppercorn, and ginger. Aptly named Ocean Vibrations, the signature treatment uses soothing ocean drums and alternating hot and cold ice balls to press into areas like the calves and upper shoulders to ease tension.
At 9 a.m. the next morning, with temperatures approaching 90 degrees Fahrenheit (about 32 degrees Celsius), I returned for a second round of meditation. Yumi led me to a sound bowl meditation session in the outdoor yoga pavilion, where the sound of birds and the sound of the waves created a completely peaceful atmosphere, like a miniature Garden of Eden. After the sound bowl meditation session, I used the waterfall pool I had discovered earlier and swam back and forth between the hot and cold pools, gradually recharging my batteries.
The real charm of Juluca Point is the thoughtful care it takes of its guests. It’s this thoughtfulness—along with ginger ale, hot tea, and Kleenex dipped in moisturizer—that helped me feel so comfortable traveling alone. At Juluca Point, I rode my bike, ate dinner with strangers, and chatted excitedly with the staff about the water. On my last day, while waiting to board the boat, I suddenly felt sick. A 25-minute boat ride seemed like an easy way to ruin someone’s shoes. Suddenly, an old trick my grandmother taught me came to mind: sucking on a lemon. I sheepishly walked back to Ucha, where I’d been enthusiastically talking about the roadside barbecue. Could they give me a box of half a dozen lemon drops to take away?
My ointment stayed with me all the way home and stopped the nausea. When I returned to New York, the smell of lemon immediately reminded me of white sand beaches, clear water, and wonderful times spent riding my bike on warm asphalt. I was finally well.
Millie Bobby Brown Shares Her Favorite Paella Recipe and Details of Her Wedding to Jack Bon Jovi
The Vogue Runway app just got bigger! Update to the latest version to access all of Vogue’s content, plus new features like Runway Genius Q&A, group chats, and posts from Vogue writers.
© 2025 Condé Nast. All rights reserved. Through our partnerships with retailers, Vogue may earn a percentage of sales from products purchased through our site. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Condé Nast. Advertising Choices