Sauna culture is thriving in cold Minnesota as people embrace saunas for their health benefits and sense of community
First of all, the sauna, I love it. The sauna is small and has a stove inside that makes you sweat, which is perfect in the winter when you need the heat the most. The heat of the sauna has helped clear my sinuses, which is a huge health benefit in itself – I have a toddler at home and my nose is always stuffy in the winter from germs at daycare.
Now the hard part. After the sauna in 80 degree heat it was so nice to go outside. But it was a lot of effort to climb the stairs to get to the ice and I was sure I wouldn’t like it.
The “hot” part of the sauna makes sense in this climate—it’s cold and snowy, and people need to warm up. But sauna enthusiasts say the healthiest experiences are jumping into a lake or pool, rolling around in the snow, or dousing yourself with cold water. That part is a little harder to swallow.
It was a cold January day in Minnesota. To avoid the embarrassing possibility of accidentally falling into a frozen lake, I decided to step into it, which was contrary to my experience growing up in frigid North Dakota. There, my typical winter routine was focused on survival.
“Oh no,” I thought as I jumped into the ice hole in my bathing suit, winter hat and wool socks. I like it. Do I need to change my identity?
Even though the people around me were grumbling and screaming in discomfort, I felt strangely calm. I wasn’t shaking, my mind was blank, and I felt very comfortable. I stayed in the cold water for about two minutes, much longer than the 30 seconds my host recommended for a first dive.
After a decade of living in the desert heat southwest of Phoenix, Arizona, I returned to the upper Midwest in late 2023. I wanted to enjoy the winter and the growing sauna culture in my new home state of Minnesota. Minnesota is often informally referred to as the “sauna capital” of the United States.
“These are a little tricky statements because there’s a note of pride or arrogance in them,” says Glenn Auerbach, founder of SaunaTimes, a sauna website, and author of a book on how to build your own sauna. “But yeah, I would say we’re ahead in a lot of ways.”
Minnesota’s cultural heritage, climate, and topography are ideal for saunas. Winters are cold and snowy. In January, the coldest month, typical highs are around 20 degrees Fahrenheit; it’s not uncommon for temperatures to never rise above -18 degrees Celsius (0 degrees Fahrenheit). The state is home to more than 10,000 lakes, perfect for jumping into icy water after warming up in a sauna. In the late 19th century, a flood of Scandinavian immigrants arrived in the country, bringing with them a love of saunas from their home countries, especially the Finns.
“They often build a sauna first, even before they build a house,” says Jessica Nelson-Rohr, operations manager of 612 Sauna, a mobile sauna cooperative. “They wash in the sauna and spend time together. Some even give birth in the sauna.”
Saunas are becoming increasingly popular in the United States and around the world, with industry reports showing steady growth. Some attribute this to the need for socialization post-quarantine, and research has provided scientific support for claims that saunas improve heart health and circulation.
When my husband and I were house hunting in the Minneapolis area, we noticed that many homes had saunas in their basements, and I realized that this might be common. Would I become a sauna enthusiast, too?
“I always say that a good sauna is like one candle lighting another candle, and when you experience that, you want to experience it yourself,” Auerbach said.
I wanted to try a few different types of saunas and baths. A good option would be a mobile sauna where you can rent a bench. I invited friends and family to sit on wooden benches around town, put down their phones, and take a break from the scorching heat. Minnesotans tend to be solitary and don’t like to interact with strangers. But in a sauna, I found that people were more talkative, and the lack of screens in an intimate atmosphere almost forced them to interact with others. For a person who loves to talk, it’s the perfect hobby.
“Saunas are a great way to connect with other people without having to leave the house to eat, go to a bar or have a drink,” Nelson-Rohr said. “It’s a great way to take care of yourself, be part of a community and stay social.”
I just got out of a sauna, and my vision is blurry. Saunas can be dangerous, especially for first-time users, because overuse can lead to dehydration. Auerbach says each sauna session can range from five to 20 minutes, but the key is to focus on and listen to your body. But my glasses are actually fogged up. Extreme temperatures can cause the anti-reflective coating on corrective lenses to melt, a condition called “crazing.” I called my eye doctor to order replacement lenses, and he said this is most common in saunas and professional chefs.
While searching for other sauna spots, I discovered that the Great Northern Winter Festival in Minneapolis has a “Sauna Village.” There, I tried a dozen saunas with other newbies and “sauna bros,” competing to see who could withstand the hottest temperatures the longest. Some of the saunas are simple and stylish, while others resemble cabins or barrels. The most hardcore sauna-goers wear cloche hats to protect their hair or prevent their heads and ears from overheating.
My first cold-water plunge took place at a lakeside summer camp called Sauna Camp. The owner told me someone had rented out the private sauna next door to ours for a birthday party, and we later heard everyone singing “Happy Birthday” in unison. It reflects the local cultural significance of saunas. “It’s like getting married on an Arizona golf course,” my husband joked when I told him about it later.
I became interested in saunas and soon fell in love with their atmosphere and their appeal. Physical therapist Craig Ringsven was another sauna enthusiast. During the pandemic, Lin Xiwen’s work hours were cut back, so he spent more time at home. He had previously used a sauna in northern Minnesota and decided to renovate his backyard. A koi pond was converted into a cold-water pool, and a barrel sauna was built next to the detached garage. A yurt with a fire inside became a relaxation area.
After friends and acquaintances insisted on using the backyard oasis, it was converted into a shop called Nordic Nook. Lin Xiwen said the shop was eventually closed by the city of Golden Valley, where he lives, because working from home must be done indoors only. But he hopes to reopen it someday.
He invited me to take a look. A secluded space with twinkling lights, perfect for a date. My husband, an Arizona native, said the scorching heat of the sauna reminded him of home, but he only stayed in the freezing cold for seven seconds.
Lin Xiwen warned me that cold showers can be addictive. “It’s really scary, but you go back to the sauna right away and feel energized and refreshed. The more you do it, the easier it gets.”
That night, the temperature in Lin Xiwen’s backyard was very low, only in the single digits. The temperature in the pond was only minus 3 degrees Celsius. At first, I wanted to skip the diving part, but then I had to admit that I had skipped it and dove in. I lasted about a minute before jumping out. My wool socks stuck to the cold ground, and I walked back to the sauna, frozen but proud of myself.
I don’t think I’ll be building a sauna in my home anytime soon, even though I enjoy socializing with my neighbors and being outside even in cold weather. However, I must admit that perhaps the most important factor in my eventual sauna-going was the desire to excel at something, even if it was just staying cool in icy water.